Here we shared everything about cleaning kit of suppressor. You may have heard about the dip. It is a highly toxic solution that will poison or kill you if handled incorrectly. Disposing of “The Dip” means taking it to a certified hazardous waste collection company/department. Since the baffles are anodized 7075 Al (except the blast baffle), the dip is out, so I wanted to try out something else. It takes longer for me to clean a handgun than it does to service my suppressor. WARNING: I like ‘do it yourself’ projects like most gun owners, however, I cannot recommend making or using “The Dip” to clean suppressors. The problem is that “the dip” mixture is extremely toxic and must be treated as hazardous waste. Learn from my mistakes. Suppressors are made of materials similar, if not identical, to firearms. Editor In Chief- TFB suppressor. Constructed of Grade 9 Titanium, heat treated 17-4 PH stainless steel, and high strength hard coat anodized 7075-T6 aluminum alloy, Nasty stuff. Once the water evaporates, the only stuff left is a bit of sludge, this sludge is lead acetate, but no longer being aqueous makes it less dangerous. It has been a long time since organic chemistry, but there are ways to neutralize the solution as well precipitate out the lead (salts) from “The Dip” – (I’m being vague here because I don’t want to advocate using “The Dip” for cleaning silencers). For general questions or to book a service, call Michael at 901-260-6030 or use this form. You may have heard about the dip. Definitely not the way to go about cleaning a suppressor that is fouled in this manner. QuietShootr. So, after half a gazillion rounds, I decided it was time to clean my XCaliber Genesis .22LR can. 05-16-10, 12:04. Since the Sparrow is so easy to take apart, it doesn't get cleaned as much as our other .22 suppressors (which is actually a good thing - remember that less is more when cleaning suppressors). Any other advice out there? Reassemble your suppressor properly, making sure that no part is missing, and everything fits properly. Check eluent and regenerant solution purity and flow. I saw a youtube video of a guy cleaning his rimfire baffles with a dremel and wire brust...just kicking up clouds of aspirated lead particles. If you have a backyard or other secure area, place the bucket you made the dip in, with some chicken wire over top and put it in direct sunlight. I worked great. Using cool water, rinse the paste off. Suppressor cleaning is a topic that regularly comes up, particularly when dealing with sealed suppressors that can’t be taken apart. Even so, rimfire and cast lead bullet loadings can make a silencer internals pretty messy. Anyone every try this? The results are in the link. Nah, just stage 4 cancer is all. The first suppressor we decided to use was the excellent Stainless Sparrow from SilencerCo. There is no need to clean our centerfire suppressors, other than making sure the threads are clear. Here recently I weighed it. Find your local HazMat disposal center. Now what OSS Suppressors suggest as a cleaning procedure for their Helix-QD cans is quite different and very interesting. Take a spackle scrapper or mason trough and transfer it to a coffee can. If I recall correctly, using 'the dip' makes lead acetate. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 11 of 11 Posts. View Full Version : "Dip" suppressor cleaning solution and aluminum parts - PSA. The threads are very precise and with the concentric threading of the barrel line up the hole in the center correctly. I've always assumed I've been adequately cleaning it. Cleaning the Dead Air Mask HD with the DIP Rimfire suppressors get dirty. A community of hobbyists interested in NFA items, topics, history, and news. ... After a 16-hour bath of the dip, a rinsing wash, a run through the ultrasonic cleaner, and manual scraping, three baffles still had some deposits that would not come off. Lemon Juice Brass Cleaner. Eye Protection Long sleaves ~Gallon bucket Hydrogen Peroxide and Distilled Vinegar. Pretty soon after buying a suppressor it came clear it needs cleaning, atleast every 200 to 1000 rounds. I've heard a soda blaster is the way to go as far as cleaning a two piece aluminum suppressor and that using DIP will make the thing disappear. The cleaning of a “can” is sometimes a source of hot debate that might only be made hotter if you express favor for one handgun caliber over another, or perhaps one political candidate over another. However, it’s important to avoid damaging the suppressor itself and its components, which (unfortunately) is easily achieved when utilizing certain toxic chemicals and abrasive devices.As mentioned in last week’s post, rimfire cans are the main culprits in terms of dirtiness due to the filthy, unja… (Not only is a bad idea to make this solution, it’s doubly bad to boil it. I still don't recommend dipping an expensive, registered suppressor in anything real harsh, mainly because I'm terrified of finding my can in solution in the dip. Also the remaining fluid is considered a hazmat since it endeds up as lead acetate. If noise continues, carry out suppressor cleaning and regeneration procedures per the manufacturer’s recommendations. And two, for the most part there is a direct relationship between the time you invest and the results on the other end. The front two baffles look shiny clean through the exit cap. I use "the dip". Place only Steel items in the dip. Federalist shares the lessons he learnt about cleaning .22 suppressors … This is a big mistake for a .22LR suppressor, and here’s why: .22 rimfires are very dirty. It is a highly toxic solution that will poison or kill you if handled incorrectly. As you can see, “The Dip” is a very effective cleaning solution. Cleaning and maintaining a silencer is a task that most suppressor enthusiasts dread. If you do clean your can, remember that carbon, lead and solvents are not good for you. Same. I've never let mine sit that long but I've noticed that after an hour or so I don't see bubbles anymore, make-up a new solution, then start seeing bubbles again. I can take my Spectre II & Mack Brothers Varminter 3.0 apart,but both of my Thunder Beast 30P-1's I can't. When it comes to servicing a silencer, there are several options at your disposal to reach the end goal: a high-performing, fully-functioning can. And while there are a variety of techniques to cleaning baffles, one technique regularly discussed on internet forums is simply called “The Dip”. It's best to clean the baffles before the lead builds … I knew that wouldn't get the baffles completely clean, but figured, what the heck. My suppressor has gained weight - an ounce of carbon. I brushed it clean once and never ever. Silencer Shop partnered up with SilencerCo to bring you an exclusive video tutorial on how to clean your suppressor. WARNING: I like ‘do it yourself’ projects like most gun owners, however, I cannot recommend making or using “The Dip” to clean suppressors. Check eluent and regenerant solution purity and flow. They are stainless from my Obsidian 45 with about 500 rounds of 45 and 9 through it both pistol and PCC. Pb2+ + 2 CH3COO−(aq) → Pb(CH3COO)2. Since the baffles are anodized 7075 Al (except the blast baffle), the dip is out, so I wanted to try out something else. Cookies help us deliver our Services. Suit up, and mix in equal ratios the ingredients above. Leave for 6-12 hours. In episode 30 Frank touched on suppressor cleaning a little. Non-permeable gloves. You may have heard about the dip. Just let them soak for 24 hours,and it will get rid of all the build up on the baffles/tube/end caps. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. And even more so when it comes to cleaning rimfire silencers. Look around, you'll find something. There is endless discussions on cleaning, dip recipes, cleaning agents to use etc. The dip- 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. You may have heard misinformation. But it weighed 15 oz. As far as cleaning, as I said before it takes about 20 minutes to completely clean 6 baffles with my blast cabinet...it's like using an eraser. LE – Silencers – Science The first time I only let the aluminum stay in the dip 1/2 an hour. For disclosure, I'm cleaning a Q El Camino (17-4 stainless baffles) and Tactical Solutions Axiom (titanium baffles). when it's finished, invert the suppressor into the jar, shake out the fluid/gunk into the mason jar. The easiest way to clean them is just soak them in Berrymans Chem-Dip solution,you can find it at any auto supply or Wal-mart. It might be the case that the reaction has slowed to a point where it's simply not making visible bubbles but still in fact working, though. However, not seeing bubbles doesn't mean it's all gone. Is there such a thing as the solution becoming "saturated" (don't know proper term) to a point where the current mix is exhausted and you need to re-fill? While preforming the "dip" make sure it is in a well ventilated area and not sealed up tight, a loose lid works well for me. A current thread on Silencer Talk documents the use of “The Dip” on a rimfire suppressor with approximately 400 rounds clocked since the last cleaning. You may have heard misinformation. So don't expose your skin. You'll be able to tell when its all gone because it will stop removing lead. If I recall correctly, using 'the dip' makes lead acetate. By adding teflon tape you increase the chance of miss aligning the suppressor and increase the possibility of a baffle strike of bulging you tube. Cleaning Suppressor of Carbon. I soaked the baffles for 16 hours in the peracetic acid solution aka the dip. I had to make a small remix to finish the sparrow. I use "the dip". ARCHIVED; Armory » … View Full Version : "Dip" suppressor cleaning solution and aluminum parts - PSA. Posted July 5, 2016 in Daily News, NFA / Suppressors / Class III by Pete with 72 Comments. FYI hydrogen peroxide easily and rapidly breaks down into plain 'ol water, so residue can rust. Later on, the lead acetate will be precipitated out into lead chloride by adding table salt and disposed of at the hazmat facility at my county dump. 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